From the Barossa Ranges in South Australia, Chris Ringland’s 2013 Dry Grown Shiraz comes from a tiny vineyard of dry-grown, ungrafted vines planted in 1910. Ringland acquired the neglected site in 1994 and spent years restoring the ancient vines, which now produce remarkably low yields of intensely concentrated fruit.

The 2013 is deeply coloured and powerful, offering layers of blackberry, black cherry and blueberry alongside violets, liquorice, dark chocolate, baking spice and savoury smoked-meat notes. Despite its formidable concentration, the wine has impressive freshness and drive, with dense yet polished tannins carrying the rich fruit through an exceptionally long finish.

There is a wonderful sense of old-vine character here: profound depth and Barossa generosity balanced by the savoury complexity that comes with age and a challenging, low-yielding site. A remarkable expression of Australian Shiraz and one of Chris Ringland’s defining wines.

There are only 1350 bottles, 139 magnums, 18 double magnums and 3 imperials (6 litres!) made of this wine, so get it while you can.