From the steep, granite terraces of the Bibei Valley in Valdeorras, Galicia, Telmo Rodríguez’s As Caborcas comes from an ancient vineyard where Mencía and other local varieties grow together among the vines. The 2018 is wonderfully wild and aromatic — crunchy raspberry and sour cherry, dark berries, wild herbs and spice, with silky tannins, bright acidity and a subtle mineral edge. Elegant, earthy and just a little bit untamed. The perfect expression of Galicia in a glass.